Scuba Imbibing

Few people are drawn to Jones Beach in the off-season, and fewer still choose to venture into the icy waters. But such unadventurous folks will never know the experience of ScubaSensei, the Tristate area's first underwater sushi bar.

It takes a bit of doing to enjoy ScubaSensei's plump rolls and pristine sashimi. There's gear to be donned, oxygen tanks to be tested, diving certificates to be earned before you're permitted to sloshingly pad down down the beach and under the waves and be served the world's freshest sushi. Yet, surprisingly, there's often a crowd at ScubaSensei's tiny bar, where owner/sushi master Iyama Posei Don holds court, slicing, rolling, expelling waves of exuberant bubbles, and kibbitzing with his appreciative audience of gently bobbing devotees. In opening ScubaSensei, master Don has united his dual passions of scuba diving and sushi, and, against all odds, his place is a hit.

Naturally, you'll need to forego the niceties of soy sauce, wasabi, and pickled ginger (not to mention tables or chairs). You are handed your fish one piece at a time to gobble forthwith - brine from surrounding seawater providing all seasoning necessary, and pure oxygen sharpening perceptions and enhancing enjoyment.

Sushi doesn't get any fresher than this. Master Don always has a supply of land-bought fish on hand in case swim-by ingredients are scarce. But what a mind-blowing pleasure it is to watch a mackerel grabbed, eviscerated, and expertly cut into toothesome bits before your very eyes! Whereas even the freshest of sushi is served literally outside its element, this direct communion with the pure essence of sea-food makes for truly extraordinary dining (avoid fried items).

Master Don isn't certain whether he'll continue during the busy summer beach season (when it will be considerably harder to elude the attention of park police). But, at least until Memorial Day, head to Field Three, and walk directly seaward from the shuttered snack bar/rest room area. You'll spot floats with the distinctive ScubaSensei logo, and can rent equipment, view menus, wax chopsticks, etc.