Wine Tip

I remember when you seemed like a lunatic for claiming a Venezuelan street vendor's corn cakes were superb. Serious food was eaten in serious places with linen napkins, and those other places serve cheap greasy sustenance for shabby shmucks. I had to beg my editor at NY Press to publish my rave of The Arepa Lady in 1993 (which became a sensation, as did she). Here it is.

Now everyone takes it for granted that "deliciousness is deliciousness", per the Chowhound credo (which, in 1997, seemed provocatively edgy). Now everyone's a food expert.

But the expertise is astonishingly thin and conformist. People know to eat Thai with a fork, and to tear off bits of pita to grab chunks of Lebanese mezze. There are about 500 little practices and factoids all foodies internalize, but I keep waiting for everyone to catch up on the wider wisdom.

It's not happening. This, apparently, is as far as it gets (which explains why virtually no one bought my app, which dumped all my food know-how into a convenient package for $5). People want to conform, not learn.

But I'll share a seemingly obvious trick not one person appears to have clued in on.

Pity those who create wine lists for fancy restaurants. You might think charging $75+/bottle allows them free rein to include fancy grog. But restaurant bottles are marked up 2.5-4.5x, so those smug sommeliers kvelling over their sumptuous offerings are all lipsticking pigs. Your $200 dinner includes legit pricey ingredients and preparations, but the wine is not special occasion wine. It's ≈$20-35 bottles. To bridge this impossible gap, wine directors wine-hound like a mo-fo, sussing out cheap stuff which pairs well with luxe, refined food. It's an excruciating task. Very much a Wizard of Oz reveal.

But it's fantastic for us. You might not drink $90 bottles at home, but you may drink $25 ones, and if you simply steal tips from fancy restaurant wine lists, buying in-store sans mark-up, you can draft on their labors.

I've never seen anyone do this. Just me.

For that matter, wine directors could draft on previous efforts (every wine list is out on the Internet). They don't, because they're smug and snotty and want to feel like wine experts, so every curation is bespoke. Me, I could "create" your four star wine list in like two hours by zeroing in on a dozen particularly clever ones, and mixing/matching.

If you read wine magazines for tips, or ask friends for tips, or (jesus) ask wine store bozos for tips, you're doing it all wrong. Print up the wine list from the most legit upscale place in your town, and go buy a bottle or two for 20-30 bucks.

"Wall-ah!" as the French say.