Wednesday, March 30, 2022

Story Cooking

I'm a longtime fan of a little-known cooking writer. Story Cooking is written by Ellie Markovitch, a Brazilian-American mom who reminds me a bit of John Thorne. She goes extremely deep on every topic she approaches, writes thoughtfully and substantially, offering up a terse recipe distilling sustained consideration of infinite permutations.

Lately, she's all-in on baking, and currently running a marathon series of 40 daily postings titled "1/2 CUP OF SOURDOUGH". It's fantastic.

Particularly good is her recent posting on biscuits, a topic seemingly ill-suited to fresh takes. It's essential reading, and Ellie's links (to early 20th century black cooking entrepreneur Annie “Knowles” Fisher - famed in her time for a whole biscuit credo - and to a contemporary woman named Verna Laboy who keeps Fisher's memory alive by going around to schools portraying her) are primo, as well.

I've stolen her biscuit photo, below. Sorry/not sorry.

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